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Diner Topia


Eating With The Locals - a Tour of Vermont's Diners

One of the great things about Vermont’s invigorating winter climate is fueling up to enjoy it. The way to start is with a hearty breakfast.

Working or playing outdoors in the snow demands more than a maintenance level of calories.  Whether you’re skiing, snowshoeing or just taking a walk, it’s important to start the day with a meal that has enough substance to last until . . . well, at least 10 o’clock.

Vermont's diners are where you're most likely to encounter a sampler of the people who make Vermont’s communities work: the road crew, local businesspeople, snow-farmers from the mountains, dairy farmers from the valleys, and the occasional politician who clearly knows on which side the toast is buttered. They’re also the kind of places where the waitstaff won’t even blink if you order pie for breakfast.

Diners are found all around the state. The Miss Bellows Falls, is a 1920s classic on the National Register of Historic Places that defines the diner’s rail car heritage, or check out the Chelsea Royal Diner on Route 9 in West Brattleboro. Over the mountains from the Chelsea Bennington’s own classic, the Blue Benn, has been starting the day for generations of residents, students and regular visitors.

At West Dover, near Mount Snow, the Townshend Dam Diner starts the day at 5 a.m. with specialties like Raspberry Chocolate-Chip Walnut Pancakes served up in homey, 1950s diner ambience.

When it comes to diners, there is obviously something to a name:  In Chester, the venerable Country Girl Diner has a rival down the road called The City Slicker Diner. Manchester Center boasts the Flat Road Diner and the confidently anointed Best Diner. At Castleton, the Birdseye Diner has an appropriate vantage point on Main Street.

Back on the eastern side of the state you'll find the Polka Dot Diner in downtown White River Junction, just across from the train station.  Woodstock has the winsome Wasp Diner, echoing the name of the local high school mascot.  All the way north in Enosburg Falls is the seasonally evocative Winterset Diner.

The legacy of the “Miss” diners seems to have worked upstream along the Connecticut River, Vermont’s eastern border. Some of the originals are gone or moved elsewhere, but north from Bellows Falls are the Miss Fairlee and the Miss Lyndonville diners. Both have enveloped the original façade with additions, but the bustling service and ample portions sustain the eating experience that have made them icons for their communities.

Along the way north other establishment have assumed the name of  their locale without embellishment: the Putney Diner and Dan's Windsor Diner are mainstays of the local breakfast trade. St. Johnsbury harbors both the St. Jay Diner (formerly a “Miss”), just north on Route 5, and Anthony’s Diner right in the middle of downtown near the depot. All the way north, virtually on the Canadian border, is Bessie’s Diner in Canaan.

If you're going where the truckers go stop at either the P & H Truck Stop in Wells River, just off I-91, or the Midway Diner on Route 7 in Rutland. Both serve breakfast all day but are known for big plates of favorites such as pot roast at reasonable prices.

Diner [image]Although the early diners tended to be located along main highways on the outskirts of towns, like the Parkway Diner on Route 2 in South Burlington and Libby's Blue Line off Route 7 in Winooski, others were sandwiched into narrow lots in some of Vermont’s most urban neighborhoods. Downtown Burlington offers two: the shinning, stainless steel Oasis, a multi-generational family enterprise distinguished by a history of impassioned political conversations; and Henry’s Diner, a distinctively beige stucco building that has endured through several decades of  “modernization” of the surrounding neighborhood.

The Farmer’s Diner in Quechee is a recent addition, but with deep roots in the rural economy. This visionary eatery operates on the principle of serving locally produced and prepared foods in support of sustainable agriculture on the local and regional level.

 A variation on the diner are the road-side cafes that have expanded on their success over the decades with rambling additions to the original building, as typified by the popular Wayside Restaurant midway between Barre and Montpelier. Or, over in Middlebury, Rosie’s Restaurant sustains a revered tradition of family service just south of town on Route 7. 

Right on the common in Middlebury, Steve’s Park Diner serves breakfast “all day,” which means until 2 p.m., when they call it a day. At least one “Miss” managed to take root on the western side of the state, where Miss B’s Kitchen sustains the old-style diner experience in Brandon.

Nutritionists have long decried the polar extremes of American breakfast habits – skipping the meal altogether versus the 19th century farmhand staple of eggs, bacon and sausage, homefries, and toast dripping with butter”; or in the sweetest tradition of the Green Mountains, a stack of pancakes drenched with genuine Vermont maple syrup. The former lacks enough calories to keep a body on an even keel for the day, while the later is likely just what is needed to make the most of a vigorous winter day. While in Vermont, there’s every reason to make the most of it!



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